Selecting Side Stones

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Bespoke three stone rings, the all-time classic, are one of our specialties

Once the center stone is selected, we will collaborate in choosing the perfectly matched side stones.

We have an extensive inventor of all various shapes, sizes, and grades.

Then we craft the ring entirely by hand without using casting, models, or CAD.

The entire ring takes more than 50 hours of custom work, starting with careful calculations and planning.

As a result, our rings are perfectly balanced and immaculately proportioned, showing off an elegant sweep of three complementary gems.

All stones are precision-fit into their seats. Only a bare minimum of metal is visible, and the rest is tucked away.

Each center stone is positioned at the lowest possible height from the finger, at a carefully calculated step in relationship to the side stones.

The shank is perfectly shaped to be almost invisible, yet provide firm support. There are no rough spots. Every surface is hand-polished to a perfect high-luster shine.


Types of side stones

Elongated side stones set perpendicular to the center stone are structurally part of a shank, those aligned in the same direction with the center stone became a part of the ring "head."

It is an important distinction - the angles are different for each arrangement.

Sometimes we make rings where two stones are combined to create a shape not possible in a single stone, and those are called five-stone rings.

Why three stones?

Side stones complement and enhance the look of the center stone.

Side stones can serve many purposes, among them:

  • emphasizing the center stone importance and provenance
  • correcting an undesirable shape or ratio of a center stone
  • hiding the center stone depth
  • serving as a contrasting background for the center stone
  • providing a graceful flow from center to the shank
  • covering a top part of a shank


Selecting side stones

Without having a center stone, side stones selection is a waste of time.

We recommend seeking the help of an experienced professional when it comes to choosing the side stones.
To make a balanced, graceful, and elegant three stone ring, many factors must be considered.
We look at the ring design, faceting patterns, proportions, prong placement, finger size,
the angle of the pitch line, and side stone instep, among other things.

Matching brilliance

To blend well with the center, stone side stones should have a similar degree of brilliance. Smaller facets break light differently.

Matching pattern

Each diamond has a different facet style resulting in a distinct pattern of reflections. Diamonds that have different patterns do not belong together. They visually clash.

Matching color

Side stones are usually a grade lower than the center diamond.
Set next to side stones of the same color a center diamond will look darker.
Regardless of their stated color grade, side stones must be examined facing up next to the main stone.
Only that will determine a perfect match. Other factors such as fluorescence, inclusions, faceting might affect the perceived color.


Side stones are usually not certified, with rare exceptions of large diamonds weighing over a carat. A supplier grades side stones, our gemologists verify the grade in-house.


The balanced look is achieved by carefully scrutinizing the sizes, angles, and facets of each stone.
Side stones that are too small will make the center stone appear insignificant and detached from the mounting. Side stones that are too big will overwhelm the center stone, diminishing its appearance and value.

Measurements vs. Weight

Carat weight is a secondary factor for side stone pricing. The side stone priced based on their overall measurements, especially when it comes to larger pairs. Dimensions are measured in fractions of millimeters, and the longest dimension is usually the determining factor in the side stone price.


Fluorescent side stones should be avoided unless the center stone itself has fluorescence.
Even worse are the pairs of matching stones with different fluorescence intensity.

Brilliant vs. Step cut

Mixing both step- and brilliant-cut stones in the same ring is less common. Usually, all three stones have the same type of facets.
In most cases adding step-cut side stones to a brilliant-cut center stone (as in a round solitaire with tapered baguettes) is OK, but adding brilliant cut side stones ( for example) to an emerald cut is not as common.
Antique diamonds, such as Old Miners or European cut rounds have the fire/brilliance balance tilted towards the fire, so they match well with step-cut side stones.


Positioning and style of prongs for various side stones is not always the same. The type of setting and type and position of the prongs should be taken into account during the selection.


Not every size, shape, color-grade, etc. are readily available, especially in the larger sizes. Side stones can be custom cut, but it usually costs too much. Sometimes finding the right pair takes a considerable amount of time.


most beautiful three stone ring by Leon Mege on model

At Leon Mege, we are responsible for the entire manufacturing process.
We are a bridal boutique - a place to have your rings custom-crafted, not plucked from a shelf full of endless clones.

Of all the Leon Mege creations, bespoke commissions are those most cherished.

Leon Mege artisans will shape your dreams into a physical object to treasure.
It is the personal attention and exceptional service that we provide that sets us apart from everyone else.
Requesting a price quote is only the first step. We will carefully walk you through the creative process each step of the way.


What about the diamonds? We guarantee the lowest price!

Buy any GIA-graded diamond at a guaranteed lowest price. We will match or beat any legitimate price by any store or a website. We have access to thousands of stones. Any stone you see on a website.

Want to upgrade your current diamond? We accept old stones and unused jewelry and are well known for our reasonable trade-in options!


Search for the best diamond

'Live' interactive diamond search is also available by phone (212) 768-3868

Diamond search



Useful quotes

5 stars 200

"These side stones really tied the ring together". - The Dude

5 stars 200

"I thought trillions are my choice until Leon made me aware of trapezoids (step-cut of course!). Excellent choice! "

5 stars 200

"Trapezoids, it's like, awesome and super shiny, b#!&ch!" Jesse Pinkman

5 stars 200

"My baguettes sparkle like little precious crystals in my husband's garage" - Skyler White

5 stars 200

"If anyone orders trillions, I'm leaving. I am NOT buying any %#!&@ trillions!" Miles Raymond

5 stars 200

"Only two things scare me and one of them is nuclear war. The other is a princess cut." Austin Powers

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