Metal we use
Most of our work is done in platinum. We exclusively use platinum/ruthenium alloy which is the most suitable for hand fabrication.
It is a mixture of 95 parts of Pure platinum and 5 parts of Ruthenium, rare noble metal used to add hardness and density to platinum. All our platinum jewelry is stamped PT950.
We use only 18K gold, lower-karat gold is not acceptable for use in high jewelry. All out gold jewelry is stamped with “750” to designate 75% pure gold content.
18K gold comes in multitude of colors, yellow, green, pink (rose) and white.
Unless specified we use rich, deep-yellow 3N*Yellow alloy, popular in Europe.
White gold was developed as a platinum substitute used in low-end jewelry to reduce the cost.
For high-end craftsmanship we specialize in, its lower price was never a factor, it’s just a fragment of the labor cost.
In addition, platinum used to be twice as expensive as gold, but not anymore, the prices flipped almost a decade ago and gold remains significantly more expensive than platinum.
In certain cases the use of 18K white gold in high jewelry is justified, for example when warmer tone is desired (white gold color is warmer compared to platinum) or to reduce the weight of a heavy piece.
Most white gold jewelry is plated with a thin layer Rhodium (dipped) that lends to their unpleasant bright white appearance.
We DO NOT use white gold alloyed with nickel which can cause a severe allergy, if we ever forced to use white gold only expensive palladium-based alloy is used.
Rose gold is a beautiful, noble looking alloy, however it is very difficult to work with. Hand fabrication using rose gold is more labor intensive and therefore more expensive.
We use silver palladium or titanium when artistic necessity dictates it.