Signature Process

"What is not started today is never finished tomorrow."

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe


Our signature process

Our signature process  |  Bench-made   |  Metals we use   |  Pave at Leon Mege 

Forever Starts Now

Every piece of jewelry tells a story. Our story is transforming raw concepts and vague ideas into flawless creations far exceeding anything you can find elsewhere in quality, style and precision. We are bespoke jewelry designers and manufacturers. Our time-proven workflow process of putting together a custom piece from raw concept to spectacular finish has your best interests in mind.

The stress and anxiety of diamond shopping should not test your will for a committed relationship. We offer an opportunity to collaborate directly with Leon Mege, who is a master jeweler, bespoke designer and the direct supplier of every venerable diamond house in the world.

leon mege twin ring production 

No competition

We have no competitors capable of doing the work on the same level of craftsmanship and artistry. Our colleagues who make bespoke pieces do not accept private clients. They work exclusively for the trade and do not take private commissions. 

On the other hand, those dealers who present themselves as “jewelers” or “jewelry designers” have never made a piece of jewelry with their own hands. Their work is done by contractors.

The perfect diamond

We want to make sure that the ring style and stone are a good match. We are a direct stone importer. As such we guarantee the lowest price of any diamond, natural or lab-grown. There is no third party between us and the diamond you want. We source our stones directly from the diamond producers.

leonmege signature process jewelry hand forging production4

With our help, you will choose the best stone and rely on our experience to build the most exquisite setting around it. To start the process, we require a small retainer.

The retainer is our assurance that our legwork and spent time will not be in vain. We have to secure stones, bring them in, check them, prepare the presentation or make professional videos. That's why we ask for a retainer. The retainer goes towards your purchase.

The majority of diamonds are owned by the banks that finance 150-some manufacturers and dealers worldwide. Practically all finished diamonds are listed in the worldwide database accessible to the members of the jewelry trade. Any jeweler has access to every listing.

Online retailers like BlueNile and James Allen are sourcing their stones from the same database. So, in effect, any stone can be sourced by anyone - a dealer, a broker, or even a blogger-cum-private-jeweler. 

The secret to finding the perfect stone is to be able to analyze the data in each listing. We are experts in analyzing the data and extracting the bits of information that escape others. Not only we are professional gemologists (Leon Mege earned a GIA graduate gemologist’s diploma in 1991), but we also have a proprietary methodology allowing us to sift through hundreds of listings to find the one that stands out by its properties and value.

When we find a good stone, do not wait - buy it. The process of selecting diamonds is like deciding which exit to take on a highway, The next exit might not be as good as the one you just missed. Those who procrastinate or try to time the market usually come to regret missing on a great deal later on.

The perfect ring

The bespoke jewelry is all about showing stones and hiding the metalwork. Once the center stone is selected we can move on to the next stage - the ring design. You can get inspired by sifting through our carefully curated portfolio, find design ideas in fashion magazines, Instagram posts and by visiting high-end retail stores such as Harry Winston or Tiffany. 

We know that the ring marks the most important moment of your life, so we will take the time to listen to the stream of unhinged thoughts and wishes, trying to make sense, organize and describe the result in terms that can be easily understood. We will discuss the minute details of the ring construction that resonate closely with your vision and taste.

There are no sketches. A florist does not draw a picture of the bouquet. A master chef doesn't sketch a filet mignon. A sketch of an engagement ring is about as useful as a traffic map of a farm.

There are plenty of photographs to illustrate every single point. Only in rare cases do we need to produce a sketch. Just like everyone’s handwriting is unique, each jeweler has his own style that manifests in subtle differences. These barely noticeable differences are what distinguish a finely-crafted ring from a hack. Accent stones for pave and side-stones are supplied by us to be combined in one dynamic, elegant package. 

We will select the appropriate side stones that compliment the center stone to the full extent and offer them for your approval. As far as the ring construction goes, you are advised to leave the small details to us and we will not disappoint. An engagement ring, much like your love, should last forever. At Leon Mege we know that you put a premium on quality, so your most perfectly made ring is backed by our "lifetime warranty".

How it's made

The stone is purchased, the ring style is selected, and the fine details of the design are formalized. Now we can proceed to making the ring. We do not customize a prefabricated model. We produce a custom piece that fits like a glove to the stone it holds. To achieve that we need the actual stone because measurements alone do not reflect the stone's unique geometry.

We will carefully decide which means of production are the most appropriate for the particular design. Regardless of the actual technology we use in production, the quality of craftsmanship is never compromised. Unlike casting, which starts off as a wax pattern, our work is done by hand-forging the metal.

We cut, bend, pound, file, polish, and otherwise transform raw metal into a finished ring without resorting to casting. Every small part is shaped and pre-finished before it is incorporated into the final assembly.

leonmege signature process jewelry hand forging production1

Working with raw metal is very similar to shaping the dough. We flatten the metal into a plate using a rolling mill, a machine very similar to a dough roller. It is just like using a rolling pin to make sheets of lasagna. Spaghetti is made by pushing the dough through a plate with round holes - essentially a die. The metal wire has to be pulled through a successive set of dies gradually reducing its diameter.

Cold forging is done using specialized hammers and anvils. Filing is done with various files, starting from coarse American Bastard cut, a common type of file familiar to every machinist, to the finest Swiss-pattern needle files used by watchmakers. Soldering is done with a hand torch.

The hand saw a tool most often associated with jewelry work is used for cutting and piercing. When you visit the Leon Mege showroom, take a close look at the collection of antique jeweler's tools, including rare old saw frames.

Every piece is pre-polished before gemstones are set. All nooks and crannies that a polishing brush cannot reach are thrummed. Thrumming is an ancient but very efficient way of smoothing surfaces using a thread. All diamonds and gemstones are set by our highly skilled and experienced setters.

Our European-trained setters work with microscopes to ensure absolute precision and to avoid damaging the stone during the stressful process. Our setters are the best in the trade with decades of hands-on expertise and experience. Once the ring is set the final polishing is done by hand until a perfect, meticulous finish is achieved. Texturing, engraving, and all other types of surface treatments are patiently applied at the very end.

Each piece is made under the direct supervision of Leon Mege, who is a master jeweler. A partial or complete work that does not fit Leon Mege standards of quality and precision gets re-melted and re-built once again. We do not entrust your custom design to faceless contractors or factories located overseas, all work is done by us. We are the best in the jewelry trade and we are grateful for your business and patronage.

The commission

Every project begins with a conversation. From the very start, we give you a direct line to your own personal jeweler. We look over your shoulder watching and advising your every step - from stone selection to ring design. We are not making a sale, we are empowering you to make informed decisions.

We exercise discretion in accepting commissions. For example, we will respectfully decline projects better suited for a low-end bench jeweler rather than a skilled craftsman. We do not work with those who prefer bargain to quality.

Remember: you will regret getting a lemon long after jubilation over its price is gone.

We are not contractors; we are a bespoke jewelry studio and workshop. We make jewelry from start to finish and we supply all the stones. If your stone is an heirloom stone we will work with your stone. You will enjoy our uninterrupted attention to every detail, as well as direct and unlimited access to our expertise, artistry, and experience. 

You can count on our professional assistance at every step, from the selection of a center stone, through the designing phase, and ultimately production and delivery. 

How long does the whole process usually take? It can take a week, it can take a few months, depending on the project. The more time you need for the gestation of ideas and working out all sorts of kinks and details the longer it’s going to be.

Quote request

We start by providing a preliminary price quote. There is no commitment on either side. The precision of our estimate depends on how detailed the client’s input is. It gives a prospective client an understanding of our pricing structure and establishes a direct line of communication.

The advantage of custom jewelry is the ability to meet your budget by choosing the diamond's size, color, and clarity. 

We can quote either by:  

  • suggesting the best stone(s) to fit your budget, or 
  • selecting the lowest priced stone of certain color, clarity, and carat size.

Initially, some people hesitate to reveal their budget. They are concerned that doing so puts them at disadvantage. These worries are unfounded. There is a diamond for every budget. Diamond prices are openly published and they are very easy to compare.

The price of a diamond is determined by the 4 C’s: cut, color, clarity, and carat size. Some clients are unsure what color, clarity, cut, and even what carat size to choose. That’s when we need to know the budget, so we can narrow the search results to a manageable number of stones.

Within the same budget, you can get a larger stone with lower color and clarity or a smaller stone with higher color and clarity. Both can be compared to each other because they are priced similarly. No matter how wealthy and generous you are, having a set budget is essential, and sharing it with us will not put you at risk of getting a bad deal. 

All diamonds are sourced by us directly from diamond cutters, so there is no middleman. Diamond prices are the same no matter who sells you the stone, just like the prices of shares of a stock on the stock market. 

Initial consultation

The phone conversation is optional. We routinely work with long-distance clients without ever speaking directly. We recommend WhatsApp (or any other messaging service of your choice) over email which often goes to spam.

The phone conversation will give us a better chance to introduce ourselves, get insights, understand your vision, style, likes and dislikes. Our guidance will be wasted unless you trust our knowledge and expertise.

At this point we discuss the design in general terms - it is too early to go into specifics. The ring will be created for an actual stone that has not yet been selected. 

The visit

We help people create and purchase custom-made bespoke jewelry regardless of their physical location. A personal visit is rarely a necessity. In fact, we meet very few people face-to-face.

We have removed all obstacles and risks by offering a choice of a contactless jewelry-buying experience. Whether you choose to visit us in-person or work remotely the process is easy, affordable, and fun!

Our showroom offers complete privacy and has all the necessary equipment and visual materials to assist during the meeting. We have a few stock pieces to demonstrate the level of craftsmanship.

The pandemic just gave everyone another good reason to keep a distance. However, if necessary, we will set up an appointment to provide you with full, one-on-one attention. As your jeweler, our goal is to make your experience more personal.

Free insured shipping

By default, we get in touch with you prior to shipping a package. If we cannot get in touch with you to confirm the address, delivery day and time we will not ship.  A package will not show up on your doorsteps without warning. 

We ship overnight by FedEx or UPS for the next day's delivery. Packages cannot be shipped for Saturday, Sunday or Monday delivery. Each package is fully insured by a third party. All deliveries require an adult signature upon receipt.

For safety reasons we ship only to a physical location, PO boxes are not allowed. Armored car deliveries are available only to a business address. The shipping method depends on the value of the item and the recipient's location.

We are happy to accommodate your schedule - your convenience is our ultimate goal.

Complete privacy

As a buyer of a luxury item, and in particular an engagement ring, you have the right to complete discretion. At Leon Mege we are extremely conscious of it and are willing to provide the extra layer of confidentiality.

After the proposal, you can share with others as much, or as little, about your engagement ring as you want. We will not break the seal of silence without your explicit permission, no matter whether you are a celebrity or a private person.

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