Custom work 101

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Bench made jewelry | Bench made ring

Bench made jewelry | Bench made ring

Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simplerAlbert Einstein Jewelry created by a craftsman using only traditional tools is called bench-made. Raw metal stock such as plate or wire is the starting point. We cut, saw, bend, forge, hammer, grind, file, and solder the shapeless clump of metal into an intricate symphony of intersecting galleries, prongs, and joints.   Leon Megé jewelry - Bench made to the highest precision. Whether a piece of jewelry is a work of art or not depends on the way it's designed and made. Every piece the Leon Mege workshop produces is conceived with...

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Metals we use

Metals we use

We work with platinum and white, yellow, and rose 18K gold, and occasionally sterling silver and other non-precious metals. One of the most desirable noble metals in the world, platinum is the best choice for bespoke jewelry, especially engagement rings. Platinum has earned high marks from the Royal Society of Chemists for its unmatched properties, such as its strength, resilience, rarity, and value. Platinum's naturally white color, which does not corrode or darken, is responsible for its elevated status among jewelers and consumers. Platinum weight is not a factor for hand-forged earrings, necklaces, pendants, and bracelets. Skilled jewelers use thinner metal,...

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Pavé at Leon Megé

Pavé at Leon Megé

Pavé at Leon Megé   Leon Megé European-trained setters are masters of setting diamonds and gemstones using a technique called “pavé,” from the French for “pavement.” Pavé stones are held in place with “beads” - rounded, raised wedges of metal. Pavé Styles Old styles of pavé are so-called “illusion” types. They were designed to work with stones that are less than uniform in size and shape. In order to mask these inconsistencies, setters would engrave faux shiny surfaces on the metal of the setting so the diamonds would blend in. Old “fishtail” pavé used engraved external V-shaped grooves resembling a fishtail to achieve that...

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Hallmarks

Hallmarks

  A serial number is hand-stamped on our rings to ensure authenticity and ownership.   Metal: "PT950" for platinum, "750" for 18K gold. Serial number "M" logo "Leon Megé" hallmark if space allows. There are a few exceptions. Sometimes there is very little physical space, so we have to omit the "Leon Megé" stamp. Sometimes the inner surface of the band is open, has ajour, has an intricate design, or the band is very thin. In those cases, we always attempt to find a way to add the "Platinum" hallmark. We might omit some stamps on small ring sizes when space is required for an inscription.When extra space is...

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Types of Pavé

Types of Pavé

  First, we need to address a common misconception - channel setting and pave setting are not the same. Average consumers often confuse a channel setting with a bright-cut pave. Both look remarkably similar, especially when set with small diamonds. Despite their visual similarity, there is a significant difference in how the stones are held. From a jeweler's standpoint, channel and pave have nothing in common. Bright-cut pave has tiny, bead-shaped prongs holding the stones. The pave walls are borders; they are merely framing the rows of stones adding definition to the space covered with pave. In contrast, the wall of the channel setting...

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Four Levels of Jewelry Craftsmanship

Four Levels of Jewelry Craftsmanship

From bespoke to downright shameful - four levels of custom work from best to worst: Bespoke hand-forging, no casting Handmade with some cast parts Casting from CAD Casting from mold There are two distinct techniques for making jewelry. One is forging by hand, and the other - called casting - is pouring liquid metal into a mold. There are four levels of jewelry craftsmanship based on the type of manufacturing process used in its creation. 1. Hand-forged jewelry offers the highest grade of jewelry craftsmanship. Just like selvage jeans or bespoke suits, the hand-forged pieces are the most desirable and sought-after. Hand-forged jewelry is made...

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Guide to Prongs

Guide to Prongs

The prong setting is the best and most popular way to secure diamonds and gemstones. Prongs are metal posts that hold a stone securely and with minimum obstruction. Prongs converge under the stone and are anchored on a gallery or some other part of the piece. Prongs secure and protect the stone, which they grip with their tips. The prongs are folded over the stone's girdle, and their tips are fashioned into claws, balls, or other shapes. They can be engraved or set with pave. A prong's tip must be small enough to blend with the stone. Prongs should have minimum visibility,...

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