Metal we use
We work primarily in platinum, and 18k gold (white, yellow, and rose), as well as occasional use of sterling silver, palladium, titanium, steel etc. when the design calls for it.
Our precious metal settings come with a hallmark PT950 indicating the purity according to FTC guidelines.
We use exclusively platinum/ruthenium alloy consisting of 95 parts of pure platinum, which is the best alloy for hand fabrication. We do not use 10% iridium alloy suitable in mass production, but not hand fabrication.
Ruthenium is a noble metal that in tiny amounts (less than 5%) cures pure platinum to improve its hardness and density.
We use only 18K gold, lower-karat gold is not acceptable for use in high jewelry. All out gold jewelry is stamped with “750” to designate 75% pure gold content.
18K gold comes in a multitude of colors, yellow, green, pink (rose) and white.
Unless specified we use rich, deep-yellow 3N*Yellow alloy, popular in Europe.
White gold was developed as a platinum substitute used in low-end jewelry to reduce the cost.
For high-end craftsmanship we specialize in, its lower price was never a factor, it’s just a fragment of the labor cost.
In addition, platinum used to be twice as expensive as gold, but not anymore, the prices flipped almost a decade ago and gold remains significantly more expensive than platinum.
In certain cases, the use of the white gold in high jewelry is justified, for example when the warmer tone is desired (white gold color is warmer compared to platinum) or to reduce the weight of a heavy piece.
Most white gold jewelry is plated with a thin layer Rhodium (dipped) that lends to their unpleasant bright white appearance.
We DO NOT use white gold alloyed with nickel which can cause a severe allergy. We use only superior palladium-based alloy is used.
Rose gold is a beautiful, noble-looking alloy, but working with it is fairly tricky. Hand fabrication using rose gold takes more time and effort and therefore costs more.